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How much: pounds 42-pounds 8732HOTEL DU VIN & BISTRO”Dining at Hotel du Vin must be a bit like receiving the OBE,” surmised one visitor, concluding that “what you remember is the whole day”. Tables may be small and close together, but this is a bistro that punches above its weight. It is the sort of place that gives “simple cooking” a good name, with lots of salady starters and much roasting and pan-frying. Despite a change of chef, the Mediterranean retains a strong pull but doesn’t tie the kitchen down. Tempura of cod with pommes frites (fish and chips, in other words) is indicative of the style, as are pea and Parma ham risotto.Where & when: 14 Southgate St, Winchester (01962-841414); daily 12noon- 1.45pm & 7pm-9.30pm. How much: pounds 28-pounds 4933ANGLESEA ARMSThe Anglesea Arms is a traditional pub, and those prepared to put up with the smoke and noisy crowds are rewarded with excellent food. The very basic decor reflects Dan Evans’s aim to provide “some of the joys in life without breaking the bank”, and his cooking is based on a zealous enthusiasm for entirely fresh ingredients, especially fish, so the daily- changing blackboard menu is largely dictated by supplies.

A catholic style takes in starters of summer shellfish minestrone, pigeon and foie gras terrine, and a Catalan-style chorizo, garlic and eel gratin. A dessert of “fabulous” lemon tart with “zinging” orange sauce was the high spot of one reporter’s meal.Where & when: 35 Wingate Rd, London W6 (0181-749 1291); daily 12.30pm- 2.45pm, Sun 1pm-3.45pm & 7.30pm-10.30pm. How much: pounds 20-pounds 3534CLIVEDEN, WALDO’SThe house, if we may use such a modest term, has acres of grounds and centuries of history – so it seems a bit odd to serve food of the calibre that Gary Jones cooks, in a small, dimly lit, though sprucely furnished, basement. The carte is sensibly limited to five choices per course, and although luxuries are de rigueur, there are no flashy flavour combinations. Gary Jones has cooked alongside Raymond Blanc and Michel Roux, and has obviously mastered the finer points of French haute cuisine. An inspector was “completely taken aback by the talent displayed in the cooking”.

Sauces are of “stunning depth and complexity”; fine flavours and textures also characterise desserts.Where & when: Taplow, Berks (01628-668561); Tue-Sat 7pm-10.30pm. How much: pounds 63-pounds 10335GOLDEN DRAGONSubtle wallpaper and a “classic” mural make this bustling place feel less frantic than some. The sheer range and variety of dim sum marks this place out from the competition: “meaty, sweet and tender” deep-fried squid, “heavenly” steamed scallop dumplings, “seductively slippery” char siu cheung fun, and “succulent” steamed spare ribs. The high proportion of Chinese customers in the evening suggests that the cooking of the full menu is of the same standard. One reporter appreciated “helpful advice from a polite, smiling waiter”.

The wine list is above the local standard.Where & when: 28-29 Gerrard St, London W1 (0171-734 1073); Mon-Sat 12noon- 11.45pm, Sun from 11am. How much: pounds 29-pounds 4636CROQUE-EN-BOUCHEPartly screened by tall trees, with only the name on the window to identify it, Croque-en-Bouche feels more like a private house than a restaurant. Wooden tables are neatly set with plain glassware, and bottle-stocked shelves (over 1000 wines to choose from; house wine from pounds 10) indicate the importance of drink to the enterprise – as much a wine business as anything. Dinner, served three evenings a week, varies from three to five courses for a set price. Marion Jones cooks, Robin Jones serves; because there are just the two of them, arrivals are carefully timed at intervals.Where & when: 221 Wells Rd, Malvern, Wells (01684-565612); Thur-Sat eve only. How much: pounds 31-pounds 6037BROWN’S HOTEL, 1837″Classical” applies equally well to both the decor and the very French food, which includes such luxuries as Beluga caviar, foie gras in a sweet Pacherenc jelly, and truffles in the chicken consomme – “refined and technically excellent” is a summary of the output.