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The absurdly buttery Chanteraine and Boursault in the second group could not be wrested from the palate, but the Chaource, a perky cow’s cheese with bite from the Champagne region, chimed perfectly with the bite of the Clos du Mesnil.Among the group of intensely stinky cheeses that followed – Carre de l’Est, Langres Livarot and Maroilles – it seemed unimaginable that anything could stand up to the smelly Maroilles. In fact, its mild smokiness and pungency contrasted nicely with the full-flavoured fruit of the 1989 vintage. But it was the moderate pungency and slight graininess of the Carre de l’Est which won me over As for blue cheese, Roquefort is too salty by half Even Stilton’s veins are a little too full-blooded. Vintage port and Stilton, or Roquefort with Sauternes are such classic combinations they have become gastronomic cliches.

The principle that opposites attract, in this case fruit sweetness and salty blue cheese, is the key to discovering similar partnerships.Less obvious but no less popular, the almost acrid pungency of goat’s cheese works brilliantly with aromatic whites with lively acidity such as Sancerre and Pouilly Fume and some of the less assertive New Zealand Sauvignons. On the other hand, subtle red wines, particularly red Bordeaux, are destroyed by most cheeses, especially soft fatties such as Camembert and Brie. Reserva Rioja or mature Chianti Classico work better with hard cheeses such as Comte, Cheddar, Mimolette, or Parmesan.Back in Jermyn Street, the 15 Paxton & Whitfield cheeses were sub-divided into four taste groups. There are, of course, matches made, if not in heaven, at least approaching it. Sit under a chandelier and launch a leisurely attack on the splendid south Indian vegetarian snacks which can precede a dosa – a rice pancake filled with vegetables and served with chutney – or make up a meal in themselves for around pounds 5.

If matching cheese and Champagne sounds overly self-indulgent, how about a partnership between cheese and Krug? Only the most ascetic of gourmets would turn down an opportunity to put this exclusive Champagne through its paces with a variety of Paxton & Whitfield’s finest and smelliest – with Krug’s eminence grise, Henri Krug, as master of ceremonies. Krug, in case you need reminding, is a luxury few can afford. When Krug HQ noticed recently that Dom Perignon was selling for a tiny bit more, instructions were issued to “re-position” Krug Grande Cuvee, now pounds 69.99 (at Oddbins and selected Tesco), above it.
If Krug Grande Cuvee is expensive, it pales in comparison with the two even grander vintages on show: the 1989 (pounds 85), an aromatic, opulently flavoured Champagne which, according to Henri Krug, compares to “a concerto”, and the 1989 Clos du Mesnil (pounds 150, both at Harrods and Fortnum’s), a subtly stylish Champagne made from Chardonnay grapes grown in the Clos du Mesnil vineyard, which celebrates its 300th anniversary this year.The notion that wine and cheese go together is probably a throwback to Sixties parties when rubbery cubes of supermarket cheddar were served on sticks with indeterminate wine. Like the well-known cluster of Indian vegetarian cafes near Euston in the centre of the capital – best of which is still the venerable Diwana Bhel Poori House – the strength here is the bhel poori from Bombay, which attract the local Asian population Unlike the Diwana, this is licensed. Each plate, which you pick up as it passes before you on the conveyor belt, costs pounds 2.25-pounds 3.25. You will pay pounds 12-pounds 20 a head in one of the poshest parts of town.Chetna’s 420 High Road, Wembley, north London (0181-900 1466) Tue-Sun lunch and dinner.